Mont Blanc Climb
Mont Blanc (4810m)
Two day climb from Chamonix / France
Normal route via Gouter Hut
or Traverse Route via Cosmique.
Mont Blanc Highlights:
– The Alps’ highest peak at 4810m
– Strenuous, but not too technical
– One night in a hut above 3500m
– Breathtaking views!
– Great way to end a trip to the Alps
– Chamonix, the capital of alpinism
Mont Blanc is certainly one of the most popular climbs in the Alps. No surprise since Mont Blanc is the highest, offers beautiful routes with easy access and it has a reputation of being “technically easy”. The latter is not really true: Prior experience with crampons and ice axe, excellent endurance and good acclimatization are essential to make the two day ascent a success.
Most commonly we do the “Traverse Route” (Three Monts) via the Cosmique Hut or the Normal Route via Gouter Hut, but we also take you on any of the more technical and remote routes on Mont Blanc.
The Mont Blanc ascent is best combined with our Haute Route Glacier Trek or booked in combination with additional training days (See our 3 – 6 Day Mont Blanc Packages) in order to acclimatize and / or get your crampon skills up to speed.
Difficulty:
– Up to 14 hrs
– Requires stamina
– High Altitude!
– Exposed ice ridge
– Rock scrambling
– Objective hazards!
Mont Blanc Dates:
Anytime : July – Sept
Price / Person:
2 clients/guide:
US$1200
1 client/guide:
US$1700
Group Size -Client / Guides:
Max. 2 / Guide
FQAs – Trip Details – Mont Blanc Ascent
Which Route is best?/ Hazard? / Hut Reservations?:
Amongst the 200 or so mountaineering routes that lead to the summit of Mont Blanc we commonly use one of the two normal routes:
The Traverse Route via Cosmique Hut tends to be a bit more strenuous on the summit day (4000m = 1000ft more altitude difference from the hut to the summit compared to the Gouter Route), requires 3 passages of front pointing on your crampons but the first day is relatively short and easy and the route doesn’t involve any rock scrambling. The route is known for icefall and / or avalanche hazard, the latter can be quite persistent after recent snowfall.
The Normal Route via the Gouter Hut is notorious for being exposed to rock fall hazard and the main technical difficulties are in the rock scramble below the Gouter Hut and a short exposed section on the summit ridge.
The decision which route will be taken often depends on mountain conditions (the Gouter Route closes at times during periods of intense summer heat due to extraordinary rock fall hazard), weather, client fitness and not lastly the availability of spots in the huts. The Gouter Hut usually books out for any given night (reservations are submitted for 2012 in early May and the core of the season books out within hours) but often we manage to pick up unconfirmed spots on shorter notice.
For fit clients, we can also maintain the option of traversing the mountain, which means using both routes either ascending or descending, which certainly gives you the best adventure.
Can I do it?
Very strenuous 2 day mountaineering trip in high altitude (4800m = 15750 ft) that requires enough stamina for a 14 hr day on your feet on the summit day with few brakes. For essentially all of the climb you will be roped to your guide. On the Normal Route via Gouter Ridge the main difficulty involves steep rock scrambling (at times on crampons) to get to the Gouter Hut on day 1. The last two hours of the climb require front pointing on crampons and finally a very exposed traverse along the icy / snowy summit ridge. The Traverse Route via Cosmique Hut involves an easy first day, but the summit day is longer and more strenuous than the normal route and requires front pointing on your crampons on several occasions.
We recommend the two day Mont Blanc format only to participants who (1) have previous experience climbing technical glaciated peaks and (2) who have spend at least two additional days in high altitude (either with or without one of our guides) before the Mont Blanc climb.
Hazards / Objective Dangers:
Both classic Mont Blanc routes imply objective dangers such as potential ice & rock fall, avalanches and crevasses. The Gouter route is notorious for rock fall hazard during the ascent to the Gouter Hut on day 1, namely traversing the ‘grand couloir’ at the beginning of the technical difficulties, especially during periods of extensive warmth and/or snow melt in mid summer from mid July – end of August and especially so in the afternoon. The traverse route (Trois Monts) via Cosmique Hut has seen accidents caused by ice and snow avalanches, especially after periods of extensive snow fall.
Video of climbing Mont Blanc du Tacul – summer 2012
What if the Weather is bad or Mont Blanc is “Closed”?
In the record heat of the summer of 2003, the mayor of the base town of St. Gervais ordered the Gouter Hut closed and it was not recommended to climb the Normal Route via Gouter Hut due to increased rock fall hazard for about three weeks. Should this or something similar occur, our first preference will be to use the traverse route via the Cosmique Hut, which is much less susceptible to the woes of hot weather.
Should the weather or mountain conditions (avalanche hazard, high winds, bad weather….) suggest that the Mont Blanc ascent is not feasible or too dangerous, our guides will look into the following options: 1) Reschedule the summit day (for example climbing the summit on day 1 by using an early gondola from Chamonix and then spending the night in a hut on the descent) 2) Ascent of the Gran Paradiso (about 2.5 hrs drive south in Italy) which benefits from being better protected to inclement weather 3) Ascent of a more technical but lower elevation peak in a neighboring range to avoid new snow or possibly high winds in higher elevations or 4) instructional days in lower elevation.
Meeting Point:
1) Either in a hotel in the Chamonix Valley or 2) by individual arrangement at a meeting point of your preference or 3) at the gondola station.
Climate, Weather, Temperatures:
High season for all mountaineering in the western Alps is mid-July through August, mainly due to the stable weather that time of the year. Day time temperatures can vary between 30C (86F) in the valleys to -20C (-4F) on clear mornings, when we start our day from a high level hut. The Mont Blanc is very exposed to extreme weather and high winds with corresponding wind chill factors are common place. that means, it can be REALLY cold! Best to check the weather forecast for freezing level and winds, talk to your guide and talk to your guide the day before the trip starts and bring warm clothing accordingly.
Services Included in the Total Price:
Guiding by an internationally (UIAGM/IFMGA) certified, multilingual mountain guide or guide aspirant under supervision. Dormitory lodging in a mountain hut with 3 course dinner (soup, meat entree and dessert) & breakfasts. Return ticket for Aiguille Du Midi gondola or Bellevue gondola / Tramway du Mont Blanc (depending on route chosen), , all guide expenses (driving, gondola, hut & valley lodging)
Not Included Are:
Air fares, lunch (Sandwiches, snacks can be purchased in the huts or in the valley), lodging in the Chamonix valley (quoted seperately), drinks (in the huts: bottled water = Euro 5 – 10/ liter, beer 0.33 = Euro 5 / can, wine = Euro 15 – 20 for 1/2 liter), additional fees for gondola / mountain train should you traverse the mountain and descend via a different route.
2 Day Mont Blanc Trip Package
We recommend the two day Mont Blanc format only to extremely fit participants who (1) have previous experience climbing technical glaciated peaks and (2) who have spend at least two additional days in high altitude (either with or without one of our guides) preferably with one or more nights of lodging above 2500 meters before embarking on the Mont Blanc climb. Our Haute Route Glacier Trek offers excellent preparation for the Mont Blanc climb.
Price / person (includes guide, guide expenses, gondola return ticket, 2 nights hut lodging with 3 course dinners and breakfast, rental equipment):
US$ 1200 at 2 participants / guide
US$ 1700 at 1 participant / guide
Option a) Ascent via the ‘Traverse Route’ aka ‘Trois Monts’ (via Cosmique Hut):
Day 1: Gondola ride to the Aiguille Du Midi,where you can enjoy the views of your ascent route to the Mont Blanc. A short descent down the east ridge of the Aiguille du Midi takes you in about 45 minutes to the modern and relatively spacious Cosmique Hut (3600 m = 11800ft).
In the afternoon, we often do a short training session in the neighborhood of the hut or just hang out on the terrace to recover from the quick change in altitude (Chamonix is located at 1000m = 3280 ft).
Day 2: The normal ascent time from the hut to the summit is about 6 hours, which gets you to the top between 7.30 and 8.00 AM. (Start from the hut is approx. at 02:00AM).
There is no shelter on the way! The route follows a steep glacier trail to the Mont Blanc du Tacul, depending on conditions, there might be some steeper steps to climb. The crux is a 60-70 meter 55 degree pitch into the Col Maudit, which requires front pointing technique on your crampons. From there relatively easy to the summit. The descent will either be via the Normal Route (Gouter Hut) or back the same way, which gets you back to Chamonix usually around 4 – 6 pm.
Option b) Ascent via Normal Route (via Gouter Hut):
Please note: In summer 2012 the train to Nid D’Aigle will not be operational which adds 570 vertical meter (1900 ft) = 2 hrs to the approach time to the Tete Rousse / Gouter Hut. Even if Mont Blanc candidates believe they have the level of fitness and acclimatization to climb 2000 meters = 6660 ft on the first day, the afternoon climb through the rock fall zones below the Gouter Hut with increased day time warming add substantial risk to the climb and hence we only recommend this route as a 3 day trip.
Day 1: Unless otherwise arranged, meet in Les Houches about 10 km downvalley from Chamonix. Gondola ride to Bellevue (1800m = 5900ft) and short train ride to Nid D’Aigle (2370m = 7770 ft). The first three hours of hiking are on an easy trail to the Tete Rousse Hut (3167m = 10400ft), which is where we will put the rope on. A short glacier is followed by the traverse of the “Grand Couloir”, the most notorious and objectively dangerous part of the ascent (45 min). From there it will take about two hours of scrambling, sometimes with support from fixed cables, to reach the Gouter Hut (3800m = 12500ft).
Day 2: The normal ascent time from the hut to the summit is about five hours, which gets you to the top between 7.30 and 8.00 AM. There is one shelter on the way, the Vallot Hut (4300 meters = 14100ft), which can be used for a quick stop to find shelter from the wind – mostly we do not stop there, though. The descent route follows the same way all the way back to the mountain train, which puts us back into the valley around 3.30PM or later.
3 Day Mont Blanc Trip Package
The three day option offers the advantage to provide a weather cushion since we can summit Mont Blanc already on day 2 should the weather forecast for day 3 indicate adverse conditions, provided the client’s fitness / acclimatization are appropriate.
This program is recommended for participants who have had previous experience in using crampons in steep glaciated terrain and high altitude experience that leads them to the conclusion they acclimatize well. Maximum client to guide ratio 2:1
Price / person (includes guide, guide expenses, gondola return ticket, 2 nights hut lodging with 3 course dinners and breakfast, rental equipment):
US$ 1600 at 2 participants / guide
US$ 2400 at 1 participant / guide
Option a) Mont Blanc Via Cosmique Hut:
Day 1 and 3: See 2 day program above. This is basically identical with our two day format but an additional day for training / acclimatization / weather cushion.
Day 2: Training climb and acclimatization day. The objective is to spend time in high altitude, get you warmed up and reemphasize technical skills, but not tire you out for the e Mont Blanc ascent the next day (14 – 16 hrs, departure time at 1 AM!). Options for training climbs are: Cosmique Ridge or traverse of the Valley Blanche and climb Aiguille du Toule or Tour Ronde, North Face of the Pointe Lachenal or the triangle du Tacul. Return to the Cosmique Hut for lodging
Option b) Mont Blanc via Tete Rousse and Gouter Hut:
Day 1: Meet in Les Houches. Gondola to Bellevue and short train ride to Nid D’Aigle. The first three hours of hiking are on an easy trail to the Tete Rousse Hut (3167m = 10400ft) for lodging. Afternoon is reserved to review equipment and do some training on your crampons and relax for the two hard days to come.
Day 2: Roping on and early start the ascent to the Gouter Hut. A short glacier is followed by the traverse of the “Grand Couloir”, the most notorious and objectively dangerous part of the ascent (45 min).
From there it will take about two hours of scrambling, sometimes with support from fixed cables, to reach the Gouter Hut (3800m = 12500ft). We usually drop our backpack and climb a bit higher on tomorrow’s ascent route in order to promote acclimatization and get an idea of the terrain that we will travel in the dark the next day. Strong parties could also consider reaching the summit on day 2, especially if the weather indicates deteriorating conditions for the next day. Lodging at the Gouter Hut.
Day 3: Same as Day 3 of our 2 day Mont Blanc program via Gouter Hut
4 Day Mont Blanc Trip Package
This program is recommended for clients who are new to the use of crampons in steep glaciated terrain (or who haven’t done it in a long time). The acclimatization time of two additional days plus one additional night in a hut above 2500 meters tends to only be sufficient for participants who acclimatize fast to high altitude. The advantage of this program is that clients can experience a different end of the Mont Blanc range, which will also take them to the Swiss side of the range. Should the Mont Blanc route via the Cosmique Hut be chosen, there is also the option to summit on day 3 (first gondola!) should the weather forecast indicate deteriorating conditions for day 4.
Price / person (includes guide, guide expenses, gondola return tickets, 2 night hut lodging with 3 course dinners and breakfast, rental equipment):
US$ 1600 at 4 participants (4/1 client/guide ratio first two days)
US$ 1700 at 3 participants (3/1 client/guide ratio first two days)
US$ 1800 at 2 participants / guide
US$ 3000 at 1 participant / guide
Option a) 2 Day Aiguille du Tour Training Trip plus 2 Day Mont Blanc Ascent:
Day 1: Gondola ride to the Col de Balme and 2.5 hrs hike to the Albert Premier Hut (2750 Meters). In the afternoon ice climbing / crampon use / glacier travel instruction on the Tour Glacier.
Day 2: 5 AM start and ascent either of the Tete Blanche (3400 Meters) or the Aiguille Du Tour (3550 Meters). Descent back to the Col du Balme via the Albert Premier Hut and return to the valley for lodging.
Day 3 and 4: Continue with our 2 Day Mont Blanc ascent either via Cosmique (Traverse Route) or Gouter Hut (Normal Route).
Option b) 1 Day Skills Training “Mer de Glace” plus 3 Day Mont Blanc Ascent:
This option may be most suitable for clients who have lodging arranged in the Chamonix Valley with their family and / or have been spending time acclimating doing high level walks on their own, but do prefer a full day of technical skills training.
Day 1: Cog train ride to Montenvers, descent the steep ladders to the Mer de Glace glacier and spend the day doing technical training using crampons and ice aces. The Mer de Glace offers the best training ground imaginable for glacier training around Chamonix. Return to Chamonix for lodging.
Day 2 – 4: Continue with one of our three day program options as above.
5 Day Mont Blanc Trip Package
This program is recommended for clients who are new to the use of crampons in steep glaciated terrain (or who haven’t done it in a long time). The acclimatization effect of spending two nights in high altitude (first at 2750 m, then at 3150m) before embarking on the Mont Blanc climb makes this program superior to our shorter programs in terms of optimizing your chances for success on Mont Blanc.
Price / person (includes guide, guide expenses, gondola return tickets, 3 night hut lodging with 3 course dinners and breakfast, rental equipment):
US$ 1900 at 4 participants (4/1 client/guide ratio first two days)
US$ 2300 at 3 participants (3/1 client/guide ratio first two days)
US$ 2500 at 2 participants / guide
US$ 5000 at 1 participant / guide
Option a) 3 Days of training / acclimatization with two hut nights above 2700 followed by 2 day Mont Blanc ascent.
Day 1: Gondola ride to the Col de Balme and 2.5 hrs hike to the Albert Premier Hut (2750 Meters). In the afternoon ice climbing / crampon use / glacier travel instruction on the Tour Glacier.
Day 2: Early morning start and ascent of the Tete Blanche (3400 Meters) and on to the Petite Fourche (2450 Meters). Descent via a short rappel to the Trient Glacier Plateau and traverse to the Trient Hut (3150 Meters).
Day 3: Ascent of the Aiguille du Tour (3550 Meters) and descent back to Le Tour in the Chamonix Valley. Lodging in our Hotel in the Chamonix Valley.
Day 4 and 5: Continue with our 2 Day Mont Blanc ascent either via Cosmique (Traverse Route) or Gouter Hut (Normal Route).
Option b) 2 Days of training by skipping day 2 of the above itinerary followed by our 3 day Mont Blanc Program a described above.
Option c) 1 Day Skills training Mer de Glace (see 4 day program) combined with 2 days of training peak ascents as above followed by our regular 2 day Mont Blanc ascent.
6 or more days Mont Blanc Program:
We gladly arrange additional days or combine Mont Blanc ascents with any of our other programs. Please ask for a custom quote.
Optional days are:
1) Rock climbing Introduction or refresher day in the Chamonix Valley on world class granite rock.
2) “Ecole de Glace” (Ice training) day in the Mer de Glace. Quick access to one of Europe’s largest glaciers by Montenvers train. Awesome scenery with views of the famous Dru and the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses
3) Extend our 2 day Mont Blanc ascent on the normal route via Gouter Hut by adding a night at the newly renovated Tete Rousse Hut (3000 meters). This will split up the strenuous day of climbing to the Gouter Hut (3900 meters) and help you acclimatize and preserve energy for the summit day.