Monte Rosa Traverse
Monte Rosa Peaks Traverse
Alps, Italy and Switzerland
9 Classic Peaks above 4000 Mt.
Mountaineering Week on Glaciated Peaks with Hut-to-Hut Traverse around Zermatt
Highlights:
– 9 Glaciated Peak Ascents possible
– High Lodging reduces up-and-down!
– Cozy huts, Good Italain Meals
– Views from Mont Blanc to Matterhorn
– Famous Resort Town of Zermatt
– Exposed Ridges, Huge Glaciers
Of the 50 highest peaks in the Alps above 4000 Meters (13120 ft), 12 Peaks are located in the heavily glaciated Monte Rosa Massif, also often referred to as the “Queen of the Alps”.
Thanks to a network of very high alpine huts and the moderate technical character of the peak ascents, this traverse gives the option to tackle up to 10 of these majestic peaks in only 5 days – assuming a good amount of fitness in legs and lungs and some previous experience with crampons and ice axe. The rewards are incredible views of the Valaisan Alps with the neighboring Matterhorn and good Italian food and wines in the huts. Although the start and ending point of this traverse is the famous Swiss mountain village of Zermatt, most of the trip will be spent on the “sunny” Italian side of the range, which is why the trip is also referred to as the “Spaghetti Tour”. A fascinating traverse with many highpoints that will keep you in glaciated terrain for the entire week!
Optional:With the Monte Rosa Traverse under your belt and a good acclimatization effect to your advantage, why not add an additional two days to your trip to climb the Matterhorn (4477 Meter, 14685 ft) the Mont Blanc (4806 Meters, 15765 ft). On a custom trip basis, we also offer a similar traverse of the same range that includes more technical summits, including the Pointe Dufour, with 4670 Meters the second highest summit in the Alps!
Difficulty:
Up to 10 hrs/day
Exposed Ridges
40 deg. Ice/Snow
Frontpointing
Crevassed Glaciers
Dates 2013:
5 days climbing
July 1 – 5
July 8 -12
July 15 – 19
July 29 – Aug 2
Aug. 5 9
Aug. 26 -30
Sept. 2 -6
Price / Person:
3 Clients / Guide
US$ 2000
2 Clients / Guide:
US$ 2500
Group Size:
Max. 3 Clients per Guide
Max. 6 Clients/Group
For Matterhorn:
1 Client per Guide
Similar Trips:
Matterhorn Ascent
Mont Blanc Course
Mont Blanc Ascent
Haute Route Glacier Trek
Trip Details and Small Print – Monte Rosa Peaks Traverse
Can I do it?
This is a classic high alpine mountaineering traverse with moderately difficult, glaciated peak ascents – previous experience with crampons and ice axe (or an additional training day before the beginning of this trip) as well as very good physical endurance for up to 10 hour mountaineering days with early starts every day are required. Since you will be spending 5 days between 3500 meters (11500 ft) and 4550 meters (15000 ft), you should be able to adapt well to altitude – previous experience in high altitude is advantageous!
Optional Ascent of the Matterhorn via Hornli Ridge:(two additional days):
The Matterhorn ascent is technically much more difficult than the Monte Rosa Peaks Traverse and requires a client to guide ratio of 1:1. The Hornli Ridge (Normal Route) is largely a rock scramble with a few sections of grade 5.6. In the upper section the ridge becomes steeper and fixed ropes facilitate the climb. For more detail please refer to our Matterhorn page.
Travel to Zermatt:
The three closest interntational airports with road distances, train travel durations and fares:
Geneva: Car 235 km, 2.30 hrs. Train: 3.45 hrs, SFR 90 / person, almost hourly departures.
Zurich: Car 350 km, 3.30 hrs. Train: 4.5 hrs, SFR 120 / person, almost hourly departures
Milan: Car 230 km, 3 hrs. Train 4 hrs, Euro 80, almost every two hourly departures
Meeting Point:
The evening before your trip starts at your hotel in Zermatt We gladly assist in organizing any pre/post trip lodging.
Climate, Weather, Temperatures:
High season for all mountaineering in the western Alps is mid-July through August, mainly due to the stable weather that time of the year. Day time temperatures can vary between 30C (86F) in the valleys to -10C (14F) on clear mornings, when we start our day from a high level hut.
Services Included in the Total Price:
5 days guiding by an internationally (UIAGM) certified mountain guide, all guide expenses, 4 nights lodging in dormitory or rooms with bunk beds in the huts with dinner and breakfast.
Not Included in the Total Price Are:
Any cost for land transportation, gondola / mountain train cost (but see below), rental equipment, however we can provide you with technical equipment items for a small fee on request.
Beverages, alcoholic or not, lunches, any additional cost of itinerary changes.
Budgeting for Cost not included in the Trip Price:
In Zermatt you can eat well for 30 – 40 SFR. A can of beer in the huts runs usually at 8 SFr, a bottle of wine around 40 SFR, the gondola to the Klein Matterhorn runs at around SFR 100 / person, the train from Rotenboden to Zermatt is about SFR 35.
Cost Reduction Options for your Travels in Switzerland:
Holder of the Swiss Card of the Swiss Railway, which is valid 1 month and costs around CHF 160 will receive a discount of almost 50% on almost all train rides and gondolas in Switzerland, including the Klein Matterhorn gondola and the Gornergrat Train in Zermatt. This Swiss Card includes free travel from the airport to Zermatt and back within the month.
Monte Rosa Mountaineering Week, Daily Itinerary:
Please note: As with all our itineraries, the following program is based on what a strong rope team can achive assuming good mountain and weather conditions.
Day 1: Meeting with the guide in Zermatt at 8 am at the Train Station.: Gondola ride to the Klein Matterhorn early in the morning. Ascent of the Breithorn (4164 meters=13660ft) and descent to the Guide d’ Ayas Hut on (3420 meters=11220 ft) on the Italian side of the range.
Day 2: Traverse of the Castor (4228 meters=13870 ft) and descent to the Quintion Sella Hut
Day 3: After traversing across the Passo del Naso, we’ll have the option to climb the Balmenhorn, and Vincent Pyramid – summits around 4250 meters (=14000 ft). Descent to the new Mantova Hut.
Day 4: Ascent of the Shwartzhorn,Ludwigshhe, Parrotspitze and Zumsteinspitze (all over 4000m) and on to the Rifugio Margherita (4555 meters = 14940 ft) for lunch in the highest alpine hut in the Alps, perched right on top of the summit of the Cima Margerita We can spend the nite here if your acclimatization is up to it, or descend to Monte Rosa Hut.
Day 5: From there on, it will be downhill back into Switzerland on the rugged Grenzgletscher to the Monte Rosa Hut and further down the glacier to the train station of the Gornergrat Railway and back into Zermatt by train – the easy way for your knees!